The Snaefellsnes (Snæfellsnes) peninsula is sometimes called mini Iceland because it offers, on a small scale, all Iceland’s tourist attractions. Glaciers, black sand beaches, moss-covered lava fields, cute fishing towns, and more. About three hour drive from Reykjavik, it’s a great place to visit on your Iceland trip. We visited Snaefellsnes after our demanding five day Laugavegur trek and it was a well-deserved treat.
We drove from Reykjavik in the afternoon, explored Snaefellsnes for one evening and one full day, and stayed for two nights in Ólafsvík. I could easily spend more time there, exploring Snaefellsnes peninsula’s beauty, but I know I will be back in the future.
Ólafsvík
This small fishing town of some 1,000 people was our home for two nights. While our hotel was nothing to write home about, the town stole my heart. Perhaps it was the beautiful sunny, warm morning we woke up to after five cold and windy days in the Highlands. Perhaps it was the pink wine we drank near the harbor the night before while watching the sunset. Or maybe it was the rainbow painted street in support of LGBTQI leading up to its small, modern church or the cutest gift shop-museum. I immediately felt I could stay for a while in this quiet town where life seems to slow down.
Hellissandur
After a morning strolling around Ólafsvík, we continued to Hellissandur to see murals on the walls of an abandoned fish factory and other old buildings. Painted by international and local artists, many of the murals reflect themes from Icelandic history and nature. In Hellissandur, we stopped at Gilbakki Kaffihús, the cutest coffee shop that you have to visit if you are in the area. Ordering lunch, deserts, and tea, we sat outside with a view of Snæfellsjökull, the glacier-capped volcano. Basking in the sun, I sported a short sleeve shirt for the first time in Iceland! Life couldn’t be better. After my friend spotted adult men jumping on the town’s large public trampoline, we couldn’t resist and gave it a shot too. We had a great time being children again.
Öndverðarnes
Next stop was Öndverðarnes, an area with dramatic black cliffs dropping into the sea, flocks of birds, and a dominant bright orange lighthouse. It took a little bit of patience getting there on a gravel, bumpy road, but it was quite doable even in our small car. A few pictures of the lighthouse, beach walk, and bird watching, a perfect little stop.
Djúpalónssandur
On our way to the black pebble beach, Djúpalónssandur, we added a short hike to a small round volcano crater just off the road. When in Iceland… Djúpalónssandur beach is popular with tourists and offers a lovely stroll on the black pebbles next to beautiful lava formations. We even dipped our toes into the icy cold North Sea before laying down on the warm black pebbles to enjoy the sun. At the Djúpalónssandur beach you see shipwreck pieces from years past, reminding you how rough the seas around Iceland are. Last but not least, we tried lifting up boulders to test our strength the same way fishermen did back in the day. Perhaps not surprisingly, I was able to lift only the smallest boulder. I would have been considered a ‘weakling’ and not allowed on the fishing boat…
Hellnar – Arnarstapi
In the afternoon, we arrived to Hellnar, the start of a beautiful 2.5 mile coastal walk to Arnarstapi. The walk takes you along the black cliffs, offering beautiful coastal views as far as you can see. At the end, we discovered some 70 feet deep hole connected to the sea with a natural stone bridge where we watched a true Nat Geo bird activity. Neither my friend nor I are bird watchers, but we were mesmerized watching the birds nesting, fetching food to feed their little ones, and bickering for at least half an hour. It was an unexpected highlight of the walk.
Another highlight was Fjöruhúsið Hellnum café. Nested above the sea with a patio overlooking the ocean, it was quintessential Icelandic – no fuss, good food, beautiful views. We ordered traditional Icelandic fish soup and skyr cake. I normally don’t like fish soup but came to appreciate the ligh-flavored, creamy ones in Iceland. And the skyr cake here – the best of our trip!
Búðir Church
This petite, black church was the last stop on our journey around the Snaefellsnes peninsula. We arrived just as the sun was setting and it casted long shadows of our figures and the church on the ground. The church was initially built in early 18 th century and then rebuilt and moved to its current location close to the sea and far from any villages. We peeked inside through the windows to admire the traditional Icelandic simplicity and coziness. It was a perfect place to finish the day.
As we headed back to Reykjavik the next day, we stopped by the Kirkjufell Mountain made famous by Game of Thrones. We almost missed it because we looked for the narrow cone so often pictured, but that view is available only from a very specific angle. The blue sky morning was chilly with fog gently rising above the green meadows. Ocean on one side and mountains on the other, I was so grateful we were able to visit this place. Snaefellsnes peninsula was a treat. Its towns, coastal walks, delicious food, and balmy weather was so worth this two day visit. And I know I will be back.
