Being home to five national parks, Utah is a treat for nature lovers and outdoor adventurers. A few years back, I visited Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks on a road trip through the Southwest. This year I wanted to take a trip for my birthday to a new destination within driving distance that has warm weather and decided on Moab, a small Utah town surrounded by three parks – Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park, and Dead Horse Point State Park. From Fort Collins, Colorado where we live it’s about 6.5 hour drive, so quite doable for a long weekend.
The weather forecast promised sun and high 70s and low 80s, balmy weather for someone coming out of the long Colorado winter and a major snowstorm just a few weeks ago. As we passed the Rockies and began our descent towards Grand Junction and Utah, I was reminded how much I love the desert landscapes of this region. Martian-like formations and a color palette from beige and brown to rich red were passing by our windows and the air felt even drier than where we live. The temperature was steadily increasing putting a smile on my face.
With two bikes, yoga mats, and our pup, we were ready for an active weekend. We made no specific plans and did not do much research, but knew that there were three beautiful parks within 20-40 min drive from Moab. Dead Horse Point State Park allows dogs on trails and the two national parks allow dogs on viewpoints only. Arriving on Friday evening, our first stop was Desert Bistro for my birthday dinner. Sitting on a covered back patio with its natural red and brown hues and greenery loosely flowing from the roof on the West side to filter just the right amount of the setting sun, we enjoyed delicious meals and the service of our jovial, friendly waiter, Chester. While on the pricier side, the food, drinks, and deserts were delicious and made for a perfect birthday celebration.
On Saturday morning, we headed to Arches National Park. We arrived at the entrance around 9:30 am and waited in line for about 15 minutes. March through May and September and October are the height of the tourist season because comfortable temperatures allow you to explore the park all day. In the summer, the sun scorches the area, with above 100 F temperatures being the norm. The park has one main road with many viewpoints, short hikes, and a few side roads to major sites along the way. Without stopping, it will take you about 40 minutes to drive from one end to the other, but of course that is not the point.
I loved seeing the contrast of the snow-capped La Sal Mountains to our right with the rich orange and red formations of the park. We made a few stops, walking short distances to the Balancing Rock and La Sal Mountain panorama views. We brought our puppy where it was possible. Where it was not, he stayed in the car as the morning temperature was still decent. We took a short hike to the Broken Arch, where we met a friendly solo adventurer and had a good conversation about running, travel, and exploring Utah. She recommended that we hike a 6.6 mile loop in Devil’s Garden at the end of the park and an idea was born to run there the next morning.
As the temperature increased and we could no longer leave our dog in the car, we left Arches and headed for a hike to Dead Horse Point State Park. This park is a bit under the radar compared to its two national park neighbors, but it’s not to be missed. The Colorado River Canyon on the backdrop of snow-capped La Sal Mountains is a panorama that rivals the Grand Canyon, but here you are spared the crowds of tourists and can hike along the rim mostly undisturbed. We did a five mile loop from the Visitor Center along the east rim to the Dead Horse Point and returned along the west rim. It was hot, but the views along the way made us forget about it all. Last summer, as a little puppy, our dog refused to move when it was above 80 F, so we were not sure how he would do in the heat. He still doesn’t love the heat (too much fur!), but he happily hopped along the way, giving us confidence that he is ready for more summer adventures. As the sun was setting, we returned back to Moab for a late Mexican dinner covered in red dust, with aching muscles and happy souls.
On Sunday we wanted to get up early and hike to the Delicate Arch for sunrise. The sunrise time was 6:58 am and we planned to leave around 5 am, but we both woke up at 3:30 am and left earlier (who are we?). We also decided to go to the ‘windows’ area with four arches (North and South Window, Turret, and Double Arch) that is recommended for beautiful sunrise views instead of the hike to Delicate Arch. I love seeing sunrises in majestic places – as we were driving in the dark through the park I was recalling sunrises at Angkor Wat in Cambodia and in Bagan in Myanmar. We were pretty bundled up because nights in the desert are quite cold. We were one of the first cars in the parking lot and with our cell phone flashlight made the short walk to the North Window Arch where we nestled for the nature’s show that was about to begin. I take moments like this as an opportunity to reflect on where I am, and quietly give gratitude to everyone in my life who has helped me be where I am and who I am. The break of dawn was quite magical. Of course, in America, there will always be that one or two obnoxiously loud people who will disturb the magic of the moment for others, but we managed to tune them out. Around 7 am, the sun finally came up and lit up in bright orange the arch above us and the surrounding rocks. The color play was stunning and without realizing it I often found myself holding my breath.
We took many photos because we just couldn’t help it. I read that Arches makes everyone a pro photographer and I have to agree – the red and orange of the rocks contrasting with blue skies makes it easy even for amateur photographers to take stunning photos. From North Window Arch, we walked over to the nearby Turret Arch and from a wall behind it for some gorgeous morning views of the whole area. Hungry, snacking on granola bars and coffee we picked up at a gas station on the way there, we headed to Delicate Arch. We wanted to hike the three mile loop to the arch but the parking lot was already full at 8 am and the crowds of people on the trail were a little off-putting. So, we opted for a shorter hike to two viewpoints where you see the arch from a distance. This hike was much more quiet and we could see this gorgeous arch in relative peace and take some amazing photos.
The last stop was Devil’s Garden per the recommendation from our new friend from the day before. Allen wanted to run a half marathon and I wanted to do the 6 mile loop. It turns out that part of the loop goes through what’s called a Primitive Trail that is full with rock scrambles and not well marked. So, I changed my plan and stayed on the main path along which you see four arches. In the middle of this breathtaking scenery, I felt so energized that I did not mind that the trail was a mix of beach-like sand, hard rocks, and angled walls, and I felt I was flying through like a gazelle (I rarely say this about my running…). I took the side routes to see all the arches along the way. I stopped to take pictures and admire their beauty, and then continued on with my run. In the last section to Double O Arch it was hard to find the trail. At one point, I ended up on top of a major rock off the trail with majestic views all around, truly feeling on top of the world. I finished my 5 mile run with a big smile on my face. I decided that this will be our new challenge – to run each national park we visit. Allen still had a few miles to go and in the early afternoon heat, I hopped on my bike to be his pacer, as he finished his half marathon. Feeling accomplished and super tired, we headed back to Moab.
While Allen took a recovery nap, I took Rocky for a walk in the town. I needed to refuel my body and wanted to check out the little artisan shops and galleries in town. At Gloria’s Corner Café, a veggie burger and fresh fruit juice did the refueling magic, so that I could continue on my art tour. It was not the easiest with an energetic pup, but thanks to the many dog-friendly places in town, we made it work. Moab Made was my favorite local artisan shop where I bought a desert themed handmade pottery mug for my morning coffee and a print from Abby Leighton (@abby_leighton) that is now sitting at my work desk to remind me to keep exploring. I am looking at it now as I write this and I love it. I also wanted to buy some gorgeous Native American ceramics for our home but I could not decide on one (choices!), so I left it for next time. We finished the day with a dinner at Gloria’s Corner Café, meeting (and in Allen’s style taking shots with) some friendly other tourists at the table next to us.
On our last day, the plan was to ride a bike along the Colorado River and highway 128. We had a late start due to packing and a nice conversation with a California couple that – as owners of two Australian Shepherds – admired our pup. When we finally got on the trail, Allen got a flat tire right away. What a bummer! After futile attempts to replace his tire, he gave up and I did just a quick exploratory ride myself while he packed up his bike. Highway 128 is absolutely gorgeous and I want to return to bike it or drive it in the future. Red cliffs along the meandering Colorado River are a sight to be enjoyed with more time.
Exploring allows me to recharge, reenergize, and get inspired. Trips like this are oxygen for blood in my veins. I know I will be coming back to Moab to see Canyonlands Park and do more biking, but for now, this trip gave me everything that I wanted for a lovely birthday weekend.
